Tuesday, April 1, 2014

Eating India - Chitrita Banerji


What a book! Great way to learn history through cuisines. Just awesome. I should say that our educational department should change their history books like this one. Very exciting and interesting. The author who is a bengali food writer living in US goes through different states of India to taste the traditional cuisines.

I love cooking and I still cook everyday so i was so much interested as I turned the pages of this book. Very much eager to try the various cuisines mentioned in this book specially those with fishes. As I expected the author started her journey from West Bengal . I was really surprised about the role of fish in  Bengal food. Very interesting to know that fish plays a vital role during marriage celebrations. I never attended any Bengali marriage but very interesting to visualize a big fish on the plate of the incoming bridegroom's party.Even though we are fishermen we never use fish in our wedding cooking. Its quite interesting how the Bengal people treat fishes. I felt why can't we too use fish in our wedding celebrations and showcase the importance of fish to everyone.

The author beautifully explains the role played by Portuguese ,Dutch, Muslim and other conquerors influence on Indian 'local' cuisines. The question of 'authenticity' is really a big question. As the author explores how the various immigrants mixed their ingredients to the local Indian cuisines. It seems to me that so called 'authentic' restaurants are not really 'authentic' in cuisines sense.None of the cuisine which we enjoy today are not authentic enough to call local or authentic. After coming to Singapore i searched for traditional kerala style 'Puttu' for almost 2 to 3 years but i did not find it but i found something similar to it in malaysian food stall , they also call it puttu. Now I have a doubt , does 'puttu' really an authentic food from Kerala ?

The good thing about this book is the author tells the story of the food through history and how different communities of people gave birth to different cuisines as well as cooking style and how it changed the food habits of Indians.

I did not like the way the author compares every food item with Bengali stuff and somehow directly or indirectly speaks high of Bengali cuisine. Of course , she praises other states cuisine too.  As a Tamilian i felt bit disappointed with the author for not writing or exploring Tamilnadu cuisines. I can understand that she did not had enough time but should have used some of Tamil cuisines in her comparisons specially with the way fisherfolks uses coconut like in Goa and Kerala. The story of how coconut tree became popular among Christians - interesting!

The various tales or historical stories related to different communities are very informative and interesting.The author also feel sorry and sad (me too!!) for the slow disappearance of many traditional dishes across India due to influx of variety of western foods and the business of people. How many of us takes time to cook our favourite food? Its always good to know the origin of food before we eat it.

This book is 'a three' in one : A travelogue , A History book  and  A Culinary book... Wonderful read!

Notes from the book :

Benda Kaal Ooru ( Bangalore) - Town of boiled beans.

Panchphoron - Nigella, Cumin, Mustard, Fennel and Fenugreek.

Vindaloo - Vinho (Wine) , Alhos (Garlic)

Bebinca  - Goan dessert

Sarak- i - Azam - highway built by Sher Sha Suri

Coondapuri Brahmins

Hebara Iyengars - wedding cooks

Manasollasa - Someshvardeva

Nabin Chandra Das  - Inventor of Rosogolla

Milagu tannir - Mulligatawny

Butter chicken - Kundan Lal

Pir Ali - Legendary Chef

Golconda - Shepherd Hill

Frederick Tudor - First man to successfully shipped ice from Boston to Calcutta in 1833.







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